Garment Construction and Pattern Making
Expert-defined terms from the Professional Certificate in CAD for Fashion Design course at London School of International Business. Free to read, free to share, paired with a globally recognised certification pathway.
Balance #
The equal distribution of visual weight in a garment or outfit, ensuring that no single element overwhelms or distracts from the overall design. Related terms include symmetry, asymmetry, and proportion. Balance is crucial in creating visually appealing and harmonious garments, as it ensures that no element is too dominant or overpowers the rest of the design.
Block (or Sloper) #
A basic, close-fitting pattern used as a foundation for creating new designs. It represents the simplest version of a garment without any design details, such as darts, gathers, or pleats. Related terms include basic block, bodice block, skirt block, and sleeve block. Blocks serve as a starting point for designers, allowing them to customize patterns to fit specific measurements or to create new designs by adding or modifying pattern pieces.
Basting #
A temporary stitch used to hold pattern pieces together during the construction process. Basting stitches are typically large, loose, and easily removed. They are often used to check the fit of a garment before final sewing or to hold pieces together for pressing or topstitching. Related terms include running stitch, backstitch, and slipstitch.
Bias (Cutting on the Bias) #
A diagonal line that runs across the grain of a fabric. Fabric cut on the bias has more stretch and drape than fabric cut along the grain or crossgrain. Related terms include grainline, straight grain, and crossgrain. Cutting on the bias is often used to create flowing, elegant garments, such as bias-cut dresses or skirts, as it allows the fabric to follow the curves of the body more closely.
Dart #
A triangular or wedge-shaped fold sewn into a garment to provide shaping and contour. Darts are typically found in areas such as the bust, waist, or hips. Related terms include ease, fullness, and gathers. Darts are an essential part of garment construction, helping to create a more fitted, tailored appearance.
Ease #
The extra space added to a pattern to allow for movement and comfort. Ease is the difference between the body measurements and the garment measurements. Related terms include wearing ease, design ease, and negative ease. Ease is crucial in creating comfortable garments that can be worn for extended periods without restricting movement.
Facings #
Pieces of fabric used to finish the raw edges of a garment, typically along necklines, armholes, or waistlines. Facings are sewn to the wrong side of the garment and then turned to the inside, where they are either topstitched or hand-stitched in place. Related terms include lining, binding, and hem allowance. Facings can help create a clean, professional finish for garments while also providing additional structure and support.
French Curve #
A flexible ruler used to draw smooth, curved lines in pattern making. French curves come in various shapes and sizes and are essential tools for creating smooth, flowing lines in garment design. Related terms include hip curve, armhole curve, and neckline curve. French curves help designers create accurate, symmetrical shapes and lines in their patterns, ensuring a better fit and appearance for the finished garment.
Grading #
The process of adjusting pattern pieces to create different sizes. This involves increasing or decreasing the measurements of the pattern pieces proportionally to create larger or smaller sizes. Related terms include grading rules, grading chart, and grading symbols. Grading is essential for creating patterns that fit a wide range of body types and sizes.
Grainline #
A line on a pattern piece that indicates the direction of the fabric's straight grain. The grainline should be parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. Related terms include straight grain, crossgrain, and bias. Aligning the grainline with the fabric's straight grain ensures that the garment will hang and drape correctly and that the fabric will not twist or distort during construction.
Interfacing #
A lightweight fabric or material used to add structure and stability to a garment. Interfacing is typically applied to areas such as collars, cuffs, and facings. Related terms include fusible interfacing, sew-in interfacing, and woven interfacing. Interfacing can help create a more professional, polished appearance for garments by providing additional support and shape.
Markings #
Notches, dots, and other symbols used to indicate important points on a pattern piece. Markings help ensure that pattern pieces are aligned and sewn together correctly during the construction process. Related terms include notches, tailor's tacks, and match points. Accurate markings and notches are essential for creating well-fitted, professional-looking garments.
Muslin #
A plain, inexpensive fabric used for making mock-ups or test garments. Muslin is often used to check the fit and construction of a garment before cutting into more expensive or delicate fabrics. Related terms include toile, fitting, and test garment. Muslin is an essential tool for designers, allowing them to make adjustments and refine their patterns without wasting expensive materials.
Notches #
Small triangles or lines used to indicate matching points on pattern pieces. Notches help ensure that pattern pieces are aligned and sewn together correctly during the construction process. Related terms include markings, tailor's tacks, and match points. Accurate notches are essential for creating well-fitted, professional-looking garments.
Pattern #
A set of instructions and templates used to create a garment. Patterns include information on cutting, seam allowances, and construction techniques. Related terms include pattern pieces, commercial pattern, and custom pattern. Patterns are essential tools for garment construction, providing designers with a clear roadmap for creating their designs.
Pattern Piece #
An individual template used to create a specific part of a garment. Pattern pieces are typically made from paper or cardboard and include markings for cutting, seam allowances, and construction techniques. Related terms include pattern, commercial pattern, and custom pattern. Pattern pieces are essential for creating accurate, well-fitted garments.
Seam Allowance #
The extra width added to a pattern piece to allow for sewing a seam. Seam allowances vary depending on the pattern and the type of garment being constructed. Related terms include ease, hem allowance, and notches. Seam allowances are essential for creating well-fitted garments that can be easily altered or adjusted.
Selvage #
The finished edge of a fabric, running parallel to the lengthwise grain. Selvages are typically tightly woven and do not fray, making them useful for aligning pattern pieces and ensuring a straight grain. Related terms include grainline, straight grain, and crossgrain. Aligning the selvage with the grainline ensures that the garment will hang and drape correctly and that the fabric will not twist or distort during construction.
Staystitching #
A row of stitching used to stabilize a curved or angled edge on a garment. Staystitching is typically done close to the edge of the fabric and is removed after construction. Related terms include basting, topstitching, and understitching. Staystitching helps prevent the fabric from stretching or distorting during construction, ensuring a better fit and appearance for the finished garment.
Symmetry #
The equal balance and proportion of visual weight on both sides of a garment or outfit. Symmetrical designs are often considered more harmonious and visually appealing than asymmetrical designs. Related terms include balance, asymmetry, and proportion. Symmetry is an essential aspect of garment design, ensuring that the garment is well-proportioned and visually balanced.
Taping #
The process of applying strips of paper or fabric to a garment to reinforce or shape it. Taping is often used to reinforce areas such as armholes, necklines, or waistlines. Related terms include interfacing, staystitching, and underlining. Taping can help create a more professional, polished appearance for garments while also providing additional support and shape.
Topstitching #
A row of stitching visible on the outside of a garment. Topstitching is often used to add decorative details or to reinforce seams. Related terms include basting, staystitching, and understitching. Topstitching is an essential technique for creating well-constructed, professional-looking garments.
Underlining #
A second layer of fabric applied to the inside of a garment to provide additional support and structure. Underlining is often used